Monday, 11 July 2011


...evich, Kommander Harkevich to be precise, is the first miniature I painted for the new FLGS here in Swindon, called Game Craft.  I delivered it this lunch time, and the new owner is very pleased with it, but damn, it was hard to give it up!  Trying different stuff with the camera again, this time I think the pictures are a little too light, but I think I've got the white balance right... 

This miniature was an absolute joy to paint, loads of interesting detail, and no large flat areas.  I'm not totally sure about his weapon, as I think it looks a little daft.  It was fun to paint though, it just looks a bit odd.  I think if I was to buy this chap myself, I'd be tempted to swap it for an axe, and turn the hand at the wrist 90 degrees, so it was horizontal rather than vertical.  Although I'd been given no requirements for the paint scheme, I wanted to keep reasonably true to the studio scheme, as the miniatures I paint for Game Craft are to be used to promote the Privateer Press games.  This was also the first time I've used some of Privateer's P3 paints, and I have to say I'm quite impressed so far.

The gold was done more traditionally than my normal method:
  • Base coat:  Tin Bitz
  • Shade: Devlan Mud wash
  • 1st highlight: Dwarf Bronze
  • 2nd highlight: Burnished Gold
It's come out really well I think, and certainly benefits from the "zenithal" highlighting method - I'm especially pleased with how the forearm guards look.

The steel was also slightly different to how I usually do things, particularly for the plates along the bottom of the cloak, which I didn't want to come out too bright, particularly with that amount of metal that was there:
  • Base coat: Charadon Granite
  • Shade: Badab Black wash
  • First highlight: Boltgun Metal was painted over pretty much everything leaving a ring of shade around each of the studs
  • Second highlight: Chainmail was painted on each stud and blended in along the top of each plate
  • Wash: Diluted Badab Black (around 1:1 mix with water) was washed over the plates, toning the metal down.
The rest of the steel was painted similarly, although I didn't do the final stage on the mace as I wanted to keep this reasonably bright.

The red armour was a little different again - I wanted to keep the red fairly bright, but make it look a little dirty, like it had been through a battle or two:
  • Base coat: Scorched Brown
  • Wash: Devlan Mud
  • First highlight: P3 Sanguine Base - it's a little more purple than I was expecting, but it works
  • Second highlight: Scab Red
  • Third highlight: Blood Red
  • Final highlight: Blood Red and Solar Macharius Orange
The first three stages give the dark and dirty undertone, while the last three stages bring the raised areas up, but without being too bright - hopefully a "dust of the battlefield" look.  There was a slight temptation to add some battle damage to the armour, but I decided against it (that stuff can take me a lot of time...).

The coat and blanket were painted my favourite grey-green colour (almost olive drab) to compliment the red armour:
  • Base coat: Charadon Granite
  • Wash: Devlan Mud
  • First highlight: Catachan Green
  • Second highlight: Catachan Green and P3 Thrall Flesh (I picked this up as an alternative to GW's Rotting Flesh, and it really did the business)
The brighter top highlight was intended to give the fabric a worn look, and I'm really pleased with the result.

The brown fur trim, pouches, pockets and straps were done pretty quickly:
  • Base coat: Scorched Brown
  • Wash: Devlan Mud
  • First highlight: Calthan Brown
  • Second highlight: Calthan Brown mixed with Dheneb Stone
The fur trim areas were carefully drybrushed - I don't drybrush much, and the temptation is to do it quickly and roughly, when like all other painting it should be a slow carefully applied process.  Taking a bit more care with the drybrushing really pays dividends - and I can't recommend GW's drybrushes enough for this, they really are good.

The beard was P3 Cryx Bane Base, drybrushed with Codex Grey and washed with Badab Black - simple but effective.  After highlighting the "brown bits", I still had some thinned Calthan Brown, so I used that as a the base coat for the face - not something I've ever done before but I thought I'd give it a go.  I carefully applied some Devlan Mud to the eye socket and mouth, and then highlighted first with Tallarn Flesh, and then Dheneb Stone.  It certainly doesn't work any worse than my other skin techniques, so I'm happy with it.

Now here's something that I've found Privateer are better at than GW - defined eyeballs, for me so far (and I may have just been lucky), the eyeballs on Privateer's miniatures are easier to paint than on GW's, they might not be quite as realistic, but they're easier to get the paint in the right place.  For the eye and teeth, I used Dheneb Stone, and then added a Chaos Black dot for the pupil of the eye.

The final stage was the harnessed power in the mace - I seriously need to read some back story so I know what half this stuff is called.  This was nothing more than a base coat of Ultramarine Blue (making sure to fill all the cavity) and a dot or line down the centre of Ice Blue - simple and effective.

So there we have it, one finished miniature and one happy receiver (plus a happy painter too)!

Up next is article number 3 for the Ancible (which I'm starting in the next couple of days), something for the in-laws, and finishing off some projects on the work bench.

As always comments and criticism welcome!


  1. Lookin' good there Andy. Like how you've balanced the bright armour with the more subdued tones.

  2. I totally agree with you about the rolling pin/baseball bat/mace whatever – that is an uninspiring weapon. I do like your brown mix – might have to try that one myself – using the Calthan Brown to highlight.

    Great mini, I can appreciate the struggle to hand it over!

  3. Thanks guys! I'm really pleased with the way the paint job has worked - I think it's going to be my standard way of painting Khador from now on.

    The Calthan Brown feels like a toned down Bestial Brown. I like to use Bestial Brown for an "old school late 80s GW" look, but the method above seemed to work better for this model.

    I took the plunge again and posted him up on CoolMiniorNot, where at last look he had an average rating of 7.7 - not too shabby!